Author: Simone De Kleermaeker

My makes of 2018, spread out over 9 blog posts. This is the last blog, with photos.

Purr Purse, revisited

2018-10-25: Let’s see if I can recreate this purse from the minute notes (and illustrations!) I took last time… #SewHereNow

2018-10-31: Remake of my own purse in progres. I’ve made some changes along the way, which I’m gonna call improvements, because I’M THE MASTER OF MY OWN WORDS!

#sewherenow #succesisachoice #orsomething

2018-10-31: Reenactment of purse is finished! With a black cat, because today is Halloween ?? #NotReally#SoftCatPatchToStrokeGently
Happy with the color combo. I’ve had the lining in my stash for this exact purpose since for ever. Black is a remnant of the hb jeans. Zipper wise I’m less happy. I won’t be using open-ended zippers again for a purse. And perhaps the choice for chunky zippers was also a bad one. But it’s done, achievement unlocked, troubles overcome. Time to use it in public ?

#sewherenow #sewallthethings

My makes of 2018, spread out over 9 blog posts. This is blog 8, with photos.

Tonga and Samoa tops

2018-07-12: Hyve mind, what do you reckon: color coordinate the loops with the neck band (bottom), or mix things up (top)? Swipe right to see the dress it will become.

2018-07-14: I’ve been sewing up a storm these past 2 weeks getting my pacific island work outfits in order. The climate (relentlessly hot) and mozzies (loving me) require long sleeves and loose fit, so not my usual cup of tea. Had fun with some details like pointy insets (aiaiai), piping (first time!) and lots of loops and spaghetti straps (which I had to do twice, cause first time I’ve put it in inside out). All on my new machine ?. One more week before I fly, so I might make one more. Full disclosure, last time I brought back 6 pieces of fabrics and I’ve saved the best for last…. #sewherenow#Samoa #Tonga

2018-07-15: Top no. 4 turned into a complete outfit, using proper Samoan fabric with typical geometric print ?. Resulting silhouette is surprisingly close to the real deal. Not sure if I can pull this off, being a blimey foreigner.
Top is a Burda pattern with added yoke and piping. Piping on the shoulder seam was a very bad idea, but now at least I know I can sew by hand as well (badly). Skirt is the remainder of the 1m wide fabric added to the waistband of my banana skirt, adding darts as you go. Big split in the back seam to allow for things like walking.

#SewHereNow #Samoa

2018-07-29: Made it back from Samoa, despite the vulcanic ash cloud coming from Vanuatu. This time I got some fabric printed by @pacificjewell, so before washing I’m giving it some extra sun power for the print to set. Print is a bit art deco with a strong Samoan twist, color is a gorgeous turquoise/petrol on light brown linen. Got some border print as well, for the matching skirt. #Excited

Sulawesi batik fabric and shirts

2018-08-17: Home sweet home, with some new batik preciousness. (played with the WB in detail photos to better match the actual color). Any suggestions what to make with them? I’m thinking cullotes and button shirt with mandarin collar.
Bought the black one at the airport, the rest direct from the locals. Airport was more expensive, but better value for money in every aspect (quality of print, fabric itself, overall straightness and sharpness of colors). I’m all in favour of supporting the local market, but… #Sulawesi #Bunaken #Batik

2018-11-18: Focused on some details and new techniques this weekend. Added a welt back pocket to my new pants yesterday and am working my way through concealed buttons and sleeve placard today. YouTube college FTW ? It’s fun to learn new things and take your time to find a nice way to do them. #alwayslearning#sewherenow #wearabletoile#myfirstbuttondown

2018-11-21: Geeking out on my first button up shirt with all the bells and whistles: ✔️ stealth breast pocket, ✔️ sleeve cuff placket, ✔️ concealed button placket, and ✔️flat felled seams all the way (except 1 French seam, which I know regret). Completely stitched on my sewing machine, including the buttons!

Bought the fabric in Sulawesi, plan to wear the shirt in Sri Lanka #batik #holidayshirt

#sewherenow #flatfelledseamsalltheway#stealthpocket #nopocketsnomake

2018-12-05: Finished another holiday shirt yesterday, made of a really nice, thin and hopefully breezy cotton. I made some alterations this time (2nd photo is from the first batik make). ➕ I increased the curvature of the collar, so that it lies flat nicely, and rounded the edge to make it friendlier. It’s still pulling a little on my left shoulder, so have to have a think on how to solve that. ➕ Added some darts on the front when the shirt was already finished. ➕ Left out the breastpocket, cause I didn’t think it will be functional on such a light cotton. Might change both again, who knows!

#batik #sulawesi #holidaysewing#sewherenow #sewhereyesterday#sewherelastweek

2018-12-10: Pattern matching fun on Sunday. Quite pleased with the result on the CB seam, but the front is all over the place. I think I forgot to take the button placket into account, and apparently also lined up different rows of patterns, and not very accurately to boot. Or something.

However, it’s so far off the mark, it almost looks intentional, so I’m going with that story instead ?

#sewherenow #holidayshirt

2018-12-12:  All this baby needs is some buttons and buttonholes, and the she’s ready to go-a-holidaying! I see a trip to lincraft in my near future.. #holidaysewing #batik

2018-12-13: Buttons! And Christmas lights!

Dutch fabrics (still to be sewn up)

2018-10-21: After a trip to Europe I’ve got my autumn on ?

Saltbox tees for mama

2018-10-11: deal cutting table with room for simultaneous pattern tracing, great lighting and bonus mum. The only downside I see is that it’s located in the Netherlands ?. #sewherenow #WhereverHereIs #work-cation #saltboxtee #SelflessSewing#nocuttingmat #useallthepins

2018-10-19: appy mum in new top, made by me on her machine ?

@corriedekleermaeker #SewThereThen#SewHereNow #SaltBoxTee

Deltares work shirts, 2019 edition

2018-12-16: There’s no such thing as too much coverstitching, right?

Making things up as I go along, hacking this Burda 08/2017 dress into a top, in knit instead of woven, omitting the lining, fabricating some neck facing, coverstitching all the seems.

I think it might need some tweaks (for starters get rid of those buste darts), but will happily test wear it tomorrow!

#workoutfit2019 #sewherenow#4moretogo #freshshirteveryday

My makes of 2018, spread out over 9 blog posts. This is blog 7, with photos.

Jaap’s T-shirts

2018-05-19: The washed, labelled and planned out mountain of merino that is my sewing for the next couple of for ever.

Sewing for the hb in any color as long as it’s black. I might sneak in some color in the overlocker looper threads, but probably won’t. #CustomerIsAlwaysRight

2018-05-20: It took me the whole Sunday, but now I’ve got a self drafted perfectly ordinary long sleeve t-shirt pattern for the hb. There must be more efficient ways to accomplish something so basic… Did learn a lot about how sleeves work along the way, so I still count it as a win. #SewHereNow

Not happy yet with how the sleeves look on the back. It’s a fully symmetrical pattern, both for the body as the sleeve, so it might need some tweaking still. Also, I’ll leave the neckline finish for another day. #MistakeWaitingToahappen

2018-08-20: Hubbie fully dressed in me-mades ? (ie t-shirt and jeans). Made the T-shirt over the weekend. Simple design, still a lot of work to get it -just- right. Strategic label placement for non-itchy flash-ability ?

Angela Kane Selvedge Jeans for Jaap

2018-07-01: Only 2 more steps to finish this pair of jeans! Unfortunately, one of those steps involves a trip to the shop for a jeans button ?. #BlackJeans #AngelaKane#SelvedgeJeans #AlreadyHemmed

2018-07-04: Achievement unlocked, I’ve made jeans for the hubbie! Such a difference in state of mind when sewing for someone else…. Buttonhole took 3 attempts, I’ll def be grading my waistband seams more next time. Went all pro though, with chisel and fray check, following the excellent online how-to by @closetcase.patterns

Angry cat label and rainbow over West End as bonus pics.

#SelvedgeJeans pattern by @angelakanetv
#ISewOtherPeoplesClothes #sewherenow

Jeans for Jaap, part 2

2018-08-04: The hb asked for seconds! So here is my fourth pair of jeans, by now I’m really starting to have fun with the details. I’ve got my top stitch settings down to a par. Buttonhole in 1 go, thanks to proper trimming of the seam allowance. Added a little detail on the back pockets, to match the high placement. And I’ve got just enough fabric left over for no. 3 ?

Must say I really like to follow the #GingerLowrise instructions by @closetcase.patterns, even though this is a @angelakanetv pattern. Especially the steps for topstiching the zipper area make more sense to me.
#sewherenow But I still finished this pair within a week ?

Jeans for Jaap, part 3

2018-10-28: Let’s talk topstitching the waistband of jeans, which gives me some serious headaches. Skipped stitches, but also the needles seems to penetrate the thread at unpredictable moments, damaging the thread.
I get somewhat better results when sewing with the foot inside the band (photo 1) and sewing tricky bits by hand turning the wheel, and the others parts really slowly with the peddle. The extra belt loops serve as ideal hump jumpers (2), since they’re the exact same extra width as, you’ve guessed it, the belt loops ?. The settings I use with my Husqvarna 1200: tension 11.5, stitch length 3.5 and speed reduced to 1. Hang on for dear life to the topstitch thread tail for the first few stitches. I use the stitch-in-the-ditch foot (sewing complet left) for the 1st row. Clear foot aligned with the edge (sewing in the centre) for the 2nd row. (photos 3-5)
#pfff #sewherenow #settings #topstitching

2018-11-28: In other news, apparently I can sew up a pair of jeans in 1 weekend now.

No 3 of #AngelaKane for the hb.

My makes of 2018, spread out over 9 blog posts. This is blog 6, with photos.

My first jeans (yikes!) – Ginger lowrise jeans

2018-01-03: Step 1: Get A0 print of pattern ✅
Step 2: Wait for the weekend to arrive….
Step 3: read through the entire instructions and try not to get nervous ✅
#GingerMidrise #CloserCasePatterns#SkinnyJeans #sewherenow

2018-01-03: Naughty me, cutting pattern pieces straight from the print instead of tracing them first like my mother taught me. I did carefully safes the off cuts though, in case I chose the wrong size ?. The advantages of an A0 pdf pattern. Just wished it had the option to only print the size(s) you want! @closetcase.patterns #GingerMidrise

2018-03-04: My first #GingerMidrise basted together, not unhappy with this fit at all!

I see these symptoms:
➖ drag lines radiating upwards from front crotch ? lengthen crotch
➖ horizontal wrinkles at front crotch ? shallower front crotch curve
➖ gaping back ? yoke adjustment
➖ not enough lift of the bum, I think it’s a low seat issue: horizontal drag lines under my seat ? scoop out seat curve (??) Would you agree with these?

@closetcase.patterns #GingerMidrise#SkinnyJeans

2018-03-09: Adjustments are done, next step is to unpick all the basting and start sewing!

I ended up with different adjustments than I initially thought:
➖ gaping back, only at the yoke, since I took of the waistband to create a low rise model (tbc)
➖ low seat adjustment, which worked wonders for me and my bum
➖ let out the seems at the hips 0.5 cm (my hips and waist don’t fit the same size)
➖ shortened the top part of front and back leg by 2cm at the indicated line (to fake a low-rise model). Instantly made a feel much more me!
➖ reattached the waistband, cause you really need it. So far without gaping back adjustments, but I’ll reconsider that when I can fit it with zipper and all. Will be a tiny adjustment, if any.

So far, so good ?. I’ll definitely need to remember to put the WonderWoman logo on the pockets. I’ve seen some awesome examples of that on IG!
#GingerMidrise #GingerLowrise#SewHereNow @closetcase.patterns

2018-03-10: #GingerLowrise #GingerMidrise take 3, after a coffee with @stitchellini and Ehud, the latter an actual trained fashion designer.

His big tip: don’t shorten (or lengthen) halfway near the crotch (as the pattern suggests), but take the length from the top of the leg pattern pieces. Otherwise you change the fit of the pants right where you have the most curves. (Also, if you’ve already cut the legs, you end up with seams where you least want them.) As a result I could get rid of laying out the seams at the hip, which made me happy ?. My final alterations are summarised in this photo:
➖ shorten front and back leg from the top by 2cm, reshape pocket opening. Shorten bottom and top pocket stay in the same way as the front leg. (Shorten pocket facing too? I didn’t do that) ➖ gaping back at both yoke (2×0.7cm) and waistband (1x1cm), reshape waistband curvature
➖ low seat, scoop out the seat curve by 2cm!
➖ flat pubis, 0.5cm shallower front crotch
➖ lengthen legs at indicated line (i.e. knee height) by 2cm

Geometric art added for your viewing pleasure, and to get this rectangular photo to show fully ?

Let the sewing commence! (after unpicking the whole thing first with some Netflix).

2018-03-11: That feeling when there’s plenty of weekend left, but you’re out of topstich thread. #SoClose ?

My makes of 2018, spread out over 9 blog posts. This is blog 5, with photos.

Flaxlight cardigan (knitting)

2018-02-22:  2.5 hours of flight left and no more yarn! #TheAgony #Miscalculation#IBlameMyNewSmoothNeedles

Also, I’m back in town!

2018-02-24: Sleeves! Travelling definitely helps my knitting along, a lot of progress for 13 days!

2018-06-28: Finished my #flaxlight cardi again, now with a longer body. Added some darts in the sides to shape the back a bit. Not sure if I just really like fitted clothes, or that I didn’t follow the pattern closely enough. Closure with two mini eye-and-hooks in the center front. I like the minimalistic look, but wonder if they will hold up in wear… I declare this cardi ready for a test drive ?I’ll probably be making some changes shortly though ?

My makes of 2018, spread out over 9 blog posts. This is blog 4, with photos.

Swimmers and matching rashie

2018-01-27: Finally made an improved bikini top, after I’ve gone through the entire process in my mind like 4 times. I love the fit of the #MarilynBikini by @wardrobebyme01, but the instructions seem to be designed to maximise the visible stitching, instead of making use of the lining to hide it.

My version now has a minimum amount of zigzag stitching and halfway through I discovered a beautiful wavy zigzag on my trusty sewing machine. #winning#swimming #sewherenow

2018-02-03: I promised @corriedekleermaekersome action shots from last week’s bikini and rashie. Since we didn’t make it to Straddie, we had to improvise a bit. Rainy and cold, just like a good summer’s day in NL, right?
Apologies for the overkill, I did add the classic teapot pose just for kicks.

2018-02-25: Added thumb cuffs and a pocket, and tightened the fit at the arms and sides. It’s hard to see in the photos (left is before), but it went from slouchy active wear to tight rashie.

My makes of 2018, spread out over 9 blog posts. This is blog 3, with photos.

Silk flower panel, slip dress

2018-01-21: Finished the slip dress, based on last years Frocktails dress pattern. So the next step is to muster up the courage to start sewing up this lovely silk panel from @tessutifabrics. On my recently acquired and definitely not yet mastered overlocker. Yah… I’m sensing some delays coming up #help

2018-01-21: Yeah for a toile with fabric from the stash (gifted by @corriedekleermaeker). This is what I had in mind: baggy overdress to preserve the flower print, with fitted slip dress to preserve the feeling-like-myself-ness :). I think I’ll wear this very wearable toile to my next meet up with spoolettes to get some feedback IRL.
Thanks @alimmay for reminding me of the power of the toile!

2018-02-03: Added some extra draping and hip swirl at the advice of the ever lovely BrisbaneSpoolettes. I’ll need to adjust the hem of the slip dress to match.

Also opened the side seam of one side of the top, to complete the twenties vibe. Neckline remains a challenge, especially with this asymmetric drape, which throws the weight distribution off balance. I might have to get a hook of sorts to attach the shoulders to the slip dress.

Flouncy coat, WIP

2018-08-18: Look what I found today, @mariandk42 Apart from the length, it’s giving me the same vibe. I’m thinking view B, with the collar of C, adding a (self drafted) detachable cape instead of a faux fur (say what!?) collar. Whatsyathink?

Greenhouse fabric, from napkin to outfit

2018-11-23: Got this beautiful fabric from @matuscki a while ago and finally settled on what to do with. Will need to get creative, since it’s all serviettes and placemats ?. Fortunately, two of the larger pieces match up nicely. Some reinforcement will be necessary, since the seam is only a few mm wide at places ?

#upcycling #soundofmusic#wearabletableware #sewherenow#matchymatchy

2018-12-05: I’m still making summer pants out of these napkins, but I had enough to make a new summer top as well. Don’t plan on wearing them together, but you never know ?

#BeThePlant #WearTheNapkins #sewherenow

2018-12-07: Crop top! @nookienu can be proud of me ?. Nicely roomy and airy, so perfect summer wear. Might let out the hem a itsy-bitsy though ?. Thanks @matuscki for gifting me this beautiful #Greenhousefabric ?

This baby has a deceivingly tricky neckband construction. Should be easier a second time around. Not completely happy with the dart points in the back,but they may start to behave after a bit of wear.

#BeThePlant #WearTheNapkins#sewherenow

2018-12-08: I let out the hem 2cm (original length on the left) and took in the side seams to alter the fit a bit. Feels more comfortably like me now! But still a properly cropped top ?

Pattern is from @burda_style magazine 2016/06 top 107. Neck construction is interesting and makes for pretty insides ?. Also comes in dress length.

My makes of 2018, spread out over 9 blog posts. This is blog 2, with photos.

Knipmode 06-2016 dress 11, aka bicycle dress

2018-01-06: Pretty happy with the fit of this toile. Made so many changes to this 2016-06 @knipmode dress that it almost feels like my own design. The pleats in the back happened when I made changes to fit the shape of my lower back. I like them!

Already modified the pattern pieces, so ready to start version 2!

2018-01-07: It’s a good thing @corriedekleermaeker got me plenty of this push bike fabric when she visited. This is a fabric hungry pattern, especially if you can’t cheat with upside down pattern pieces. @knipmode 2016-06 dress 11, version 2: the real deal.

2018-01-09: May the cutting begin!
The balcony table matches beautifully with the dining table, so I’ve got me a temporarily kick-ass-sized cutting table ?

2018-01-13: My interpretation of @knipmode2016-06 dress 11, in a jersey knit from #JanSikkes gifted by @corriedekleermaeker featuring plenty of bicycles ??‍♀️?‍♀️ First made quite some changes to the fit in a wearable muslin first and now remade it in this slightly heavier jersey.

Finished it with a rolled hem, because I wanted to preserve the length and also just because I can now that I have my-first-overlocker. The hem curls outward a bit too much, so probably should have used the differential feet better. Not entirely happy with the arm scythes, which might turn out a bit too tight for the Brisbane climate. Also not certain about the pockets, adding bulk to the hips and tend to stay open. But then again, you got to have pockets!

Sometimes you finish a perfectly fine dress without jumping for joy, not sure why in this case. Guess I’ll need to take her on a test run and see how she goes.

BTW, the big ass cutting table made up of the dining room table together with the balcony table worked swimmingly. Thank the engineers for standardised sizing.

2013-01-13: What a difference 2 cm make in the armpit. Changed my dress from uncomfortable to just what I planned for!

2018-03-31: Last weekend I made another Burdastyle dress, since my push bike version has proven to be a favorite. This time I used a heavier knit, getting towards scuba in a beautiful bordeaux. I’m happy with the look and feel of it in this dress.

Petticoat

2018-02-10: Believe it or not, but making a petticoat has been on my wish list for many a year. Today I made it so!

Photos are: without, with and only a petticoat. Does it have the right amount of fullness you think?

I made this with tulle cut offs from @reversegarbageqld and got plenty left for a full length petticoat, or another short one with more layers ?. Having an overlocker definitely made the job a lot easier and faster ?. It’s more a winter accessory though, tulle works nicely as insulation… ?

Pleated skirt

2018-03-31: Yesterday I finally picked up this lovely print from Voodoo Rabbit to turn it into a pleated skirt, making it up as I went along. No cutting, apart from the pocket, but quite a bit of unpicking as I stumbled through the process. Now I can finally put my petty coat to use!

Also, the skirt is nice combo with this t-shirt from Plotz in the Netherlands featuring cutting scissors ?. #SewHereNow

My makes of 2018, spread out over 9 blog posts. This is blog 1, with photos.

Deltares work shirts, 2018 edition

2018-01-01: A new year, a new sewing project. Made a 2nd work shirt in my 2018 style, but added some flat piping to the neckline (left one). Used both of my machines this time, do everything is threaded up with royal blue. #Classy
That makes two down, so a few more to go!

2018-02-03: First attempt to transform left over collars and sleeves from my refashioned work shirts into something. Currently thinking pleated skirt. I don’t have enough material to make an entire skirt though. Maybe it would work with a straight /plain backside. Thoughts?

Upcycling dress to pencilskirt

2018-01-02: Shapeless dress (on me at least) turned into knee-length vixen pencilskirt. It works great with my work-polo-turned-classy-top. Now I’ll have to wear fancy shoes into the office ?

I reused the collar as waistband, with some elastic hidden within. Nipped the sides in a smidgen. That was all. Overlocker FTW.

Original dress donated by @mariandk42over a year ago *blush*. #waronwaste #slowfashion

Summer pants (wearable toile and the real deal)

2018-11-04: Summer pants! Planning on more, cause Summer ?. Will tweak the waistband a bit in the next one.

#highwater #sewherenow #prettyinsides#KnipmodeWithTweaks #Lowrise

2018-11-06: Played a serious game this morning with a enthusiastic group of Indonesian delegates. Had great fun, but also shared with them that my pocket lining was in fact an Indonesian print. At the end they gave me this beautiful bracelet made from local stones, so I guess my confession was appreciated ?. #imakemyownclothes #detailsmatter#prettyinsidesFTW

2018-11-18: Focused on some details and new techniques this weekend. Added a welt back pocket to my new pants yesterday and am working my way through concealed buttons and sleeve placard today. YouTube college FTW ? It’s fun to learn new things and take your time to find a nice way to do them. #alwayslearning#sewherenow #wearabletoile#myfirstbuttondown

2018-11-29: Happy work pants! @knipmode2018-09 pattern #16. This length combined with bare feet make me feel like Uma Thurman.

Modifications: ➕ swopped straight waistband with shaped #GingerMidrisewaistband, previously hacked to be a LowRise ➕ hidden button and hook for closure ➕ added welt pockets in the back.

#MorePockets #sewherenow #prettyinsides #twist

Deltares work shirts, 2019 edition

2018-12-16: There’s no such thing as too much coverstitching, right?

Making things up as I go along, hacking this Burda 08/2017 dress into a top, in knit instead of woven, omitting the lining, fabricating some neck facing, coverstitching all the seems.

I think it might need some tweaks (for starters get rid of those buste darts), but will happily test wear it tomorrow!

#workoutfit2019 #sewherenow #4moretogo #freshshirteveryday

I’ve been all over Instagram in 2018, neglecting this blog. I think this blog will have a bit more staying power than random Insta posts, so I’ve gathered all my makes, in semi chronological order in a few blog posts. More for my future self than anyone else, mind you! It worked out to be 9 blog post, so I guess this was my 2018 make 9 :).

1-work-outfit, 2-bicycle-dress, 3-WIP, 4-swimmers, 5-flaxlight-cardi, 6-ginger-jeans, 7-for-Jaap, 8-souvenirs, 9-kitten-purse

We start here with the changes in hardware in 2018 and the 2018 Christmas drinkies with the Spoolettes :).  Here’s the link to the photos.

Sewing machine troubles